build a lap steel ? - Acoustic Guitar Forum

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build a lap steel ?

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Author	Topic: build a lap steel ?
Leo unregistered	posted 05-26-2003 05:14 Whilst Im saving for a resonator, I’d like to attempt to construct a lap steel. I have just got hooked on the sounds of these instruments after playing guitar for many years and am finding my way around open “d” with a raised nut on an old acoustic, just for now. I did build a strat type guitar a long time ago, so I have some very limited construction knowledge, although I know asolutely nothing about the slide guitar as yet. Could I ask few questions to maybe get me on track… 1. typical scale length ?? 2.are fret positions based on standard guitar formula 3.what would be typical string spacing at nut/saddle for 6-8 string 4.does the saddle end need intonation compensation or is it just set square to string line ? 5.should I go for 6 or 8 string any help would be gratefully received thanks Leo IP: Logged
Steinar Gregertsen Member Posts: 3670 From: Norway Registered: Apr 2003	posted 05-26-2003 05:39 Check this: http://www.well.com/user/wellvis/diy.html Good luck! IP: Logged
edroper Member Posts: 20 From: Seneca Falls, NY Registered: Oct 2002	posted 05-26-2003 08:35 Leo, I recently built a six string that turned out very well. 1. 23" scale length 2. Fret positions relate to the scale length. 3. 1 13/16" at nut, 2 1/8" at saddle 4. I used a tele bridge that could be adjusted for intonation but right now I have the saddles in a straight line and the intonation is good. 5. I went six string because I play a roundneck dobro in DGDGBD tuning and figured the transition to lap style would be easier on six strings. John Tipka's booklet was helpful as an outline on lap steel building. I got the Supro Supreme blueprint from Elderly for most of the dimensions. Lots of good info at www.mimf.com There's pictures of my steel there. Also at Yahoo!Groups:lapsteel. Ed IP: Logged
Leo unregistered	posted 05-27-2003 03:10 Thanks for your help both. The pictures look very impressive... and inspiring. I realised the relationship with fret positions relative to a standard fretted guitar, but I wasnt sure if the same ratio applied to a lap steel of same scale length. I remember reading someplace.. maybe on here, that there are position errors above frets when using a bar. Hope Im making sence here... what do I know. Thanks again !!! regds.. Leo IP: Logged
Louisiana_Grey Member Posts: 791 From: Isle of Man Registered: Jan 2003	posted 05-27-2003 05:01 Leo, the frets are in the same place as a regular guitar of the same scale length and the centre of the bar needs to be directly above the fret. What can be confusing is your viewing angle changes as you move the bar along the neck, so at the bottom end it looks like it's behind the fret, but it looks closer to the fret as you move up the neck. Incidentally I wanted a lap steel that would feel just like a dobro to play so I built mine with a 25 inch scale length. 9mm between the string centres at the nut, 11mm at the bridge. I used an acoustic-style bone bridge insert in a piece of ebony & it works fine, but if I do another one I'll probably use a hardtail electric guitar bridge just in case I need to adjust the intonation. IP: Logged
edroper Member Posts: 20 From: Seneca Falls, NY Registered: Oct 2002	posted 05-27-2003 15:30 LA, That's a good idea, using a 25" scale like a dobro. Now I'm planning #3 and #2 isn't even built yet. Did you glue the bridge down or did you leave it free to move like an archtop bridge? IP: Logged
Bopcat Member Posts: 40 From: Registered: Apr 2002	posted 05-28-2003 09:45 A shorter scale (like 23" instead of 25") makes it easier to play slants - if that is important to you. IP: Logged
Louisiana_Grey Member Posts: 791 From: Isle of Man Registered: Jan 2003	posted 05-28-2003 10:54 I glued the bridge down, because the strings are attached to the back of the bridge. It's not necessarily the way I'd go next time, though. In fact, I think I'll probably put a Hipshot on the next one as I find it so useful on the dobro - there's an idea for number four, Ed! I guess a shorter scale does make some slants easier, but the dobro guys never seem to have any problems with them. My travel reso is 23" scale and it does take a short time to adjust mentally moving between the two scale lengths. IP: Logged
waxwing Member Posts: 1431 From: Oakland, CA Registered: Oct 2001	posted 05-28-2003 12:21 Regarding compensated saddles. I thought this was due to differences in string tension when the various string diameters were fretted. I.E. pushing the string down to the fret stretches the string slightly and the greater tension has a varying effect due to string diameter, or actually string core diameter. If I'm assuming correctly, I can't see that you would ever have to compensate a guitar that was never fretted. But then, I know nothing about playing a lap steel. Just an observation. All for now. John C. [This message has been edited by waxwing (edited May 28, 2003).] IP: Logged
edroper Member Posts: 20 From: Seneca Falls, NY Registered: Oct 2002	posted 05-28-2003 13:33 John C, You make a good point about intonation on a lap steel. Like I said I haven't adjusted mine and it sounds in tune anyway. I just like the way tele bridges look and sound. Ed IP: Logged
waxwing Member Posts: 1431 From: Oakland, CA Registered: Oct 2001	posted 05-28-2003 17:21 Cool. Sound is where it's at. And looks certainly enter into it. All for now. John C. IP: Logged

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